Simple ways to prune and train fruit trees and bushes

July 28, 2015

Well-pruned and trained fruit trees and bushes will stay healthy and produce maximum yields. Here are some quick tips to help you get the most out of your crops this season.

Simple ways to prune and train fruit trees and bushes

How to prune in winter and summer

Winter pruning:

  • Prune to create a strong framework. Remove crossing branches, those blocking light or air, and any dead wood.
  • To promote new growth, prune back main growing shoots (leaders) to just above a healthy growth bud, slanting the cut upwards.
  • Prune back side shoots (laterals) to form a fruiting spur or leave them to grow into new branches.
  • Growth buds are easily distinguished from fruit ones because they lie flat to the stem; fruit buds are plumper and stand prouder by comparison.

Summer pruning:

  • Apple trees can be pruned to promote fruiting. Prune new sideshoots to about six or seven buds, cutting just above a plump fruit bud.
  • Training fruit trees against walls and fences saves space and is ideal for warmth-loving types, such as peaches and apricots.

Simple training techniques

Blackberries, loganberries and other bushes that grow untidily are best trained onto wires spaced 20 centimetres (eight inches) apart, cutting out dead wood each fall after fruiting. For other fruit use one of the following two methods:

  1. Espaliers: Plant 20 centimetres (eight inches)from a wall or fence. In early summer, select three shoots, one at the top (to be trained vertically) and one on either side of the main stem, 30centimetres (12 inches)above ground level. Remove all other shoots andbuds. As sideshoots grow, attach them to wires on the wall. In early spring select more sideshoots for training and remove unwanted growth. Allow shoots to grow every 10 to 15centimetres (four to six inches)on the sideshoots, removing the rest. On new growth, cut back shoots with flower buds at their base to one or two leaves.
  2. Cordons: This method is ideal for apples and pears that bear fruit on short sideshoots (spurs). Cordons are best established with trees planted 60 to 90 centimetres (25 to 35 inches)apart at a 45 degree angle against a fence or wall onto which you've secured horizontal wires 60centimetres (25 inches)apart. After planting, leave the leader and any short laterals intact. Cut back alllaterals longer than 10centimetres (four inches)to three buds. Between July and September cut back all laterals to one goodleaf from the base and sub-laterals to one or two buds.

Pruning soft fruits

  • Raspberries: for summer-fruiting types, remove dead canes after fruiting. For fall-fruiting varieties, cut back to ground level in fall or early spring.
  • Currants: blackcurrants fruit on new wood, so prune the bushes as you harvest, leaving eight to ten branches less than three years old to grow and fruit next year. Red and white currants fruit on old wood. Prune them in winter, shortening tall new growth by half. Cut side branches (laterals) back to one bud.

Fruit trees and bushes are delicious additions to any garden. Remember these simple maintenance tips, and your crops will thrive!

The material on this website is provided for entertainment, informational and educational purposes only and should never act as a substitute to the advice of an applicable professional. Use of this website is subject to our terms of use and privacy policy.
Close menu